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Post-war, her share was two percent of all Chanel No. She never acted on this opportunity. Chanel's initial marketing strategy was to generate buzz for her new fragrance by hosting a promotional event. She invited a group of elite friends to dine with her in an elegant restaurant in Grasse where she surprised and delighted her guests by spraying them with Chanel No. The official launch place and date of Chanel No. She infused the shop's dressing rooms with the scent, and she gave bottles to a select few of her high society friends.
The success of Chanel No.
Chanel's friend Misia Sert exclaimed: Parfums Chanel was the corporate entity established in to run the production, marketing, and distribution of the fragrance business. Chanel wanted to spread the sale of Chanel No. The first new market was New York City. The initial marketing was discreet and deliberately restricted. It was a small ad for Parfums Chanel announcing the Chanel line of fragrances available at Bonwit Teller , an upscale department store.
In the ad, all the bottles were indistinguishable from each another, displaying all the Chanel perfumes available, Numbers 9, 11, 22, and the centerpiece of the line, No. This was the extent of the advertising campaign in the s and appeared only intermittently. In the US, the sale of Chanel No. The Galeries Lafayette was the first retailer of the fragrance in Paris. In France itself, Chanel No. The first solo advertisement for Chanel No. In the earlys, when other perfume makers were increasing brand exposure, Parfums Chanel took a contrary track and decreased advertising.
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In and , Chanel ads had been prominent. By , there was almost no Chanel print advertising. Fragrance sales flourished during World War II. Perfume sales in the United States from to increased tenfold; Chanel No. During the war years the directors of Parfums Chanel came up with an innovative marketing idea. The plan was now to grow the market by selling the perfume at military post exchanges. It was a risky move that might have damaged the allure of the brand. It did not destroy the cachet of the brand; instead it became a souvenir the soldier coveted for his sweetheart back home.
In an attempt at damage control, she placed a sign in the window of her rue Cambon boutique, announcing that free bottles of Chanel No. Soldiers waited in long lines to take a bottle of Paris luxe back home, and "would have been outraged if the French police had touched a hair on her head". In the s the glamour of Chanel No. Monroe's unsolicited endorsement of the fragrance provided invaluable publicity. In a interview, when asked what she wore to bed, the movie star provocatively responded: In the s the glossy fashion magazines such as Vogue and Bazaar presented Chanel No.
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Print advertising for Chanel No. Two catch phrases alternated as ad copy: In the s the brand name needed revitalization.
The fragrance was removed from drug stores and similar outlets. Outside advertising agencies were dropped. The rebranding was managed by Jacques Helleu, the artistic director for Parfums Chanel. Helleu chose French actress Catherine Deneuve as the new face of Chanel. Print ads showcased the iconic sculpture of the bottle. Television commercials were inventive mini-films with production values of surreal fantasy and seduction.
Directed by Ridley Scott in the s and s, they "played on the same visual imagery, with the same silhouette of the bottle". In the s, more money was reportedly spent advertising Chanel No. In , actress Nicole Kidman was enlisted to represent the fragrance. Film director Baz Luhrmann , brought in to conceive and direct a new advertising campaign featuring her, described his concept for what he titled No. In Chanel ran an advertising campaign using a recorded interview with Marilyn Monroe in which she is asked about her use of Chanel No.
It featured Ed Feingersh 's photograph of the actress splashing herself with a bottle of the perfume. Now, a newly found recording of her from discussing the subject further with Marie Claire ' s editor-in-chief Georges Belmont is being used in a new advertising campaign for the fragrance set to break this fall. She said people pose questions. The bottoms of the pajamas? But it's the truth! In October , Luhrmann again collaborated with Chanel, creating a second advertising campaign for No. Coco Chanel had wanted to develop a distinctly modern fragrance for some time by early The duke introduced her to Ernest Beaux on the French Riviera.
Beaux was the master perfumer at A.
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Rallet and Company, where he had been employed since The company was the official perfumer to the Russian royal family, and "the imperial palace at St. Petersburg was a famously perfumed court. In , Beaux created a men's cologne, Le Bouquet de Napoleon , to commemorate the th anniversary of the Battle of Borodino , a decisive battle in the Napoleonic Wars. Its success inspired Beaux to create a feminine counterpart, whose starting point was the chemical composition of aldehydic multiflores in Houbigant 's immensely popular fragrance, Quelques Fleurs His experiments with the aldehydes in Quelques Fleurs , resulted in a fragrance that he called Le Bouquet de Catherine.
He intended to use the scent to celebrate, in , the th anniversary of the Romanoff dynasty. The debut of this new perfume was ill-timed commercially. World War I was approaching, and the czarina and the perfume's namesake, the Empress Catherine, had both been German-born. Timing and unfavorable associations, combined with Le Bouquet de Catherine' s hefty price tag, made it a commercial failure. An attempt to re-brand the perfume, as Rallet No. Beaux, who had affiliated himself with the Allies and the White Russian army, had spent — as a lieutenant stationed far north, in the last arctic outpost of the continent, Arkangelsk , at Mudyug Island Prison where he interrogated Bolshevik prisoners.
Beaux perfected what was to become Chanel No. He worked from the rose and jasmine base of Rallet No. He experimented with modern synthetics, adding his own invention "Rose E. B" and notes derived from a new jasmine source, a commercial ingredient called Jasophore. The revamped, complex formula also increased the quantities of orris root , iris root, and natural musks.
The key was Beaux's use of aldehydes. Aldehydes are organic compounds of carbon, oxygen and hydrogen. They are manipulated in the laboratory at crucial stages of chemical reaction whereby the process arrests and isolates the scent. When used creatively, aldehydes act as "seasonings", as aroma boosters.
Beaux's student, Constantin Weriguine , said the aldehyde Beaux used had the clean note of the arctic, "a melting winter note". A laboratory assistant, mistaking a full strength mixture for a ten percent dilution, had jolted the compound with a quantity of aldehyde never before used.
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Beaux prepared ten glass vials for Chanel's assessment. Numbered 1—5 and 20—24, each group a variation of the compound.
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Yes," Chanel said later, "that is what I was waiting for. A perfume like nothing else. A woman's perfume, with the scent of a woman. According to Chanel, the formula used to produce No.